Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Miller Union

999 Brady Ave., Atlanta, GA

Hello, followers! Just a quick note to say that I'm sorry for the delay in posting. However, I have a good excuse - I was on my honeymoon! Now I am back in town and ready to eat.

I actually ate dinner at this restaurant almost a month ago, before I got married and skipped the country. Consequently I'm afraid the memory of the details of the meal have dimmed a bit. This will be a shorter review than usual.

My sister and I started our meal with the creamy grits fritters, at a very reasonable price of $5. Very good. My favorite thing about this dish is how crispy the outside was fried in comparison to how soft the inside was. This is literally grits with a hard shell. A lovely contrast.

My sister ordered the quail ($22) for an entree. This is currently listed on the website as sauteed with wild mushrooms, arugula and cornbread dressing. A month ago it came with celery and farro. Something you should know right off the bat about Miller Union is that the menu changes regularly, according to what ingredients the chef can get locally, fresh, and many times organically. Don't look at the menu online and get stuck on any particular item, or you'll likely be disappointed when you get to the restaurant.

Which would be unfortunate, because the menu always contains great options.

My sister enjoyed the quail, except with quail you have to keep in mind that half of the bird's weight consists of bones. You'll have to pick your way through to get to the meat, which is fine, if you like dark meat chicken. The farro was tasty and the celery was tender-crisp.

I liked my entree better, a fantastic flounder fillet with a super fresh mixed local beans mix, a little corn, and fresh micro peppercress (yes, peppercress is correct. I had to ask the waiter about this and he gave me the lowdown - $26). The lovely chicken broth base was very savory and a total delight. The flounder was tender and sublime. I would happily order this again any time.

We had the warm plum crisp with custard sauce for dessert ($7). Yum! Subtle and darkly satisfying, although I think tacking on an additional $3 or a scoop of ice cream was a cheap shot.

I was also happy to see a local cabernet on the list, from Dahlonega's Frog Town vineyard (440). A very nice wine. I wish more of Atlanta's restaurants would take advantage of Dahlonega's increasingly good offerings.

Not that I should be surprised. Miller Union with Chef Steven Satterfield (former sous chef at one of my annual favorites, previously reviewed Watershed in Decatur) has been recently touted in Bon Appetit as a top ten new restaurant in the U.S. and also voted best new restaurant in Atlanta magazine. I pretty much knew going in that I was going to be happy with my meal here, and Miller Union didn't disappoint me. I can't say I experience the wow factor of Restaurant Eugene or Woodfire Grill, but I think that the food here lives up to the talk.

Verdict: Hot on the tail of local foodie favorites like Restaurant Eugene, Steven Satterfield has made Miller Union a success.

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